Fiberglass pools are not new; in fact these types of pools have been around for nearly 50 years.  Fiberglass pools are one piece, factory built shells made with fiberglass, resins, and finished with a gel coating, a non porous surface similar to modern day boats and pool slides.

Fiberglass pools are available in a wide variety of shapes and sizes with various tile patterns, fiber optic lighting, and in-floor cleaning systems, possible.  Some forms of maintenance like acid washing, resurfacing, and liner replacements don't exist with fiberglass pools, but proper weekly chemical and cleaning maintenance are still needed to protect the gel coat finish.

Fiberglass Pool Installation Pictures

You or your dealer will mark the site for the new Fiberglass pool. You should think about sun exposure, access to a bathroom, areas for guest to gather (and to retreat from the afternoon sun), and access to the site. In general, people will gather on the side closest to the house at the shallow end of the pool. Pour your deck accordingly. Once the outline of the pool is marked with chalk or spray paint you are ready to dig the hole.

The next step will be to dig the hole according to the Fiberglass pool's dig specs. This step will take 3-6 hours and varies in complexity with the size and shape of the pool. Sport Pools with flat bottoms are the easiest to dig. Deep well pools are more difficult. The key to a good hole is to measure frequently. You will use a builder’s level (transit) to measure as you go. Today, laser levels can be rented, that take the guesswork out of measurement. Once the hole is complete, string will be used to set the exact grade for the pool. This string will act as a guide when you line the hole with sand or gravel.

The Fiberglass pool will arrive on a truck at your home, ready to install. Now is this is where the real fun begins...The pool will be lifted off of the truck using a boom truck or, in the case of smaller pools, the track hoe itself. You or your dealer will now need to level the pool to less than an inch. This can become a little monotonous for a first time installer. Raise that end up, now this end is too low, you get the drill. You should get this done in well under the typical 3 hour minimum typical for the crane. The water will seek its own level once the pool is filled. For this reason, you need to pay close attention now.

Ok, it is now time to plumb the Fiberglass pool and ready it for back-filling the hole around it. You or your dealer will drill 2-4 2" inch holes for the returns, and optional light or automatic cleaner. If you ever plan on installing an automatic cleaner, go ahead and plumb for it now. It can always be added later. Plumbing is as simple as gluing any PVC pipe. Connect the pool and power to the filter for both the electrical and plumbing... This can take 3-5 hours.

You will also start filling the Fiberglass pool. Each pool has a level to which it can be filled with water with no backfill around it. If you use a fire hydrant or water truck, filling is fast. The water must remain about 12" higher than the surrounding backfill. This helps maintain the shape of the pool.

Rough grade is easily done with the right tools. You can either rent a small Bobcat with a landscape box, or hire someone to prepare your yard. In either case, you will want to be sure that the pool is at a local high point in the yard. Be sure that all of the ground around your Fiberglass pool slopes away from the pool. Typically you want 2"-6" of rise at the pool edge, relative to the surrounding area. This allows rain water to drain away from the pool.

There are two options for pouring the deck: standard and cantilever. In a standard deck, the concrete come up to the edge of the Fiberglass pool, leaving an exposed band of fiberglass around the pool. In the cantilever deck, the concrete is poured up to and over the edge of the pool. When combined with tile, this is a very striking finish. There are many other choices: stamped concrete, slate, rock, washed aggregate, brick pavers, cool deck, and the list goes on...

One final note before we wrap up. It is often better to wait a few weeks before actually pouring the pool deck. The reason is that the area around the Fiberglass pool will settle over time. This is highly variable due to various soil conditions, rain levels, and backfill material. During that wait, your pool is completely ready to swim.

Other Important Fiberglass Pool Considerations....

·         Water Level

Do Not Drain Your Pool!!!!!! Your fiberglass pool is designed to remain full of water at all times. If the pool is drained without proper directions, hydrostatic or ground pressure outside the pool could cause the structure to buckle or crack. All damage to the pool shell resulting from improper pool drainage is the owner’s responsibility.

If it becomes necessary to drain the pool, contact your fiberglass pool installer or the fiberglass pool manufacturer.

For best operation, keep the water level in the center of the rectangular skimmer plate on the pool wall. Low water level may cause the circulating pump to loose prime resulting in pump damage; high water level reduces or eliminates the skimmer effectiveness.

·         Pool Surface Care

The "bathtub" ring which forms on the pool wall or tile caused by body oils, suntan lotions and air borne contaminants can easily be removed with swimming pool tile cleaner or other non abrasive commercial tile or vinyl cleaners. Do not use abrasive cleaners, steel wool, metal scrapers, brushes or tools as these may cause permanent damage to the gel coat finish. Dulled gel coat above the water line may be restored with a heavy cut automotive polishing compound either power or hand applied followed by a coat of wax. The gel-coat finish of your fiberglass pool can be scratched like any other gloss surface. The gel coat is seven to eight times thicker than a normal coat of paint so it is not likely that scratches will be more than superficial.

Hair line cracks which may develop over a period of time are not uncommon. They only penetrate the gel coat and do not affect the pool's structure or result in leakage. Scratches and hair-line cracks are repairable. Contact your fiberglass pool dealer for more information. Most of the dirt and debris that sinks to the bottom of your pool can be brushed toward and into the main drain and will be trapped in the filter. Heavy amounts of dirt and debris should be vacuumed out.

·         Water Chemistry

4 components make up pool water chemistry:

1.      Potential Hydrogen (pH) is the relative acidity or base of your pool's water. For example: low pH would be acidic and high pH would be base. The human tear has a pH value of 7 and is classified as neutral. The ideal pH value for your fiberglass pool is 7.2 to 7.4. PH levels should be checked weekly.

2.      Total Alkalinity (T.A.) is composed of the minerals in your pool water that buffer pH and is measured in parts per million (1 P.P.M. = 1 part per million parts of water). If the mineral levels are too high, then the pH will constantly drift up. If the mineral levels are too low, the pH will drift down or fluctuate. The proper total alkalinity level for your fiberglass pool is 70 to 80 P.P.M. and should be checked weekly.

3.      Calcium Hardness (C.H.) is the relative hardness of your pool water, and is measured in P.P.M. If the water is too soft, it will be aggressive and erode pool equipment such as heaters, ladders and even the gel coat finish. If the water is too hard, deposits will form on the pool equipment and finish. 300 to 350 P.P.M. is the proper hardness for your fiberglass pool and should be checked weekly.

4.      Total Dissolved Solids (T.D.S.) are the sum total of all materials in solution in your pool water, and is measured in P.P.M. T.D.S. should be checked annually by a pool store professional or service company. T.D.S. above 1,500 P.P.M. reduces sanitizer effectiveness and causes the water to become abrasive. Note: During periods of heavy rain or high swimmer loads, all of the above water chemistry valves, except T.D.S. should be checked more frequently.

When tests show all the above water chemistry items to be within the recommended ranges, it is in balance. Balanced water will be clean, clear, and blue and sparkles. Eye and skin irritation will be reduced, and pool equipment and gel coat surface life will be extended. Balanced water improves sanitation effectiveness and reduces or eliminates the necessity of adding costly water chemistry supplements. Prolonged improper water chemistry and high sanitizer levels can lead to pool equipment and gel coat damage which may not be covered by your fiberglass pool warranty.

·         Start Up Water Chemistry Summary

1.      Adjust pH level to 7.4 - 7.6 by using testing kit supplied with your fiberglass pool.

2.      Add Chlorine Stabilizer per instructions on label of stabilizer container.

3.      Super chlorinate with chlorine per instructions on label of chlorine container.

4.      Turn on your pump which will initiate filtration. Run the pump continuously for 24 hours.

5.      Clean your filter medium by hosing off your cartridges or backwashing.

Repeat steps 3 and 4 until water is clear.

·         Installation

It is very important to consult the owner’s manual and manufacturer of the fiberglass pool.  Installation of a fiberglass pool normally should be done by professional installers, but many people have done the installation them selves.

All of the above information was provided by SAN JUAN POOLS.